Updates from Around: For Ella Boucht, Fire Horse comes with a sense of security
In a new series “Updates from around”, Helsinki Design Weekly will take on guests who, from their nook in the world, allow us into what they think is important, inspiring and indisputable right now. First out is Ella Boucht, a Finnish designer, mentor, and lecturer working at the intersection of fashion, bespoke tailoring, creative alterations, and leather craftsmanship. Upon their move to Brussels, Ella speaks of change and the new year to come.
HDW: The first question we always ask is whether this call finds you well?
ELLA: It finds me well––well and extremely busy. I am organising a move out of London and into Brussels while also attending my last London-based pop-up event before moving. The event is this weekend, in three days and the move will take place at the end of the month. I am swamped because along with the organisation and moving, I am still teaching at the London College of Fashion and running my own fashion brand Boucht, a label of genderfluid imagery focused on bespoke tailoring.
HDW: How would you best describe bespoke tailoring and the work you do?
ELLA: I work with commission-based projects which means that depending on the client, what their needs and wants are and whether they are, in fact, an institution of sorts or a private person, the scale of the project varies greatly. Bespoke tailoring, to me, means that as a creator I tailor to the client but instead of merely delivering, I believe in collaborating with the client. It might be that the client orders a custom suit but what I aim to then make is something that fits their measurements but also their wishes for a desired outcome.
HDW: You mentioned that the range of project size varies, could you elaborate on that?
ELLA: At the moment I am working with smaller scale projects, making personal things such as suits or wedding apparel or custom pieces for bigger events. Yet, in 2024, for example, I worked with Helsinki University to design a new type of graduation gown. A project initiated by Kristina Ranki, the project leader, sensing a need to change the old and very binary attire set for the graduates.
An old tradition that stems from the end of the 16th century and is highly bound to the church. According to tradition, the women should come dressed in long, white gowns. Men are allowed to wear tailcoats. What is a non-binary person or a transperson to do? In collaboration with the institute, we looked into the possibilities of the gown and how it would best suit all types of bodies and genders. This was a larger project with a full production team.
Since 2025 I have been collaborating with Savile Row-trained tailor Joshua Dobrik to look into the way that the fashion world uses patterns. Dobrik, also a queer creative, and I worked on making patterns for transmasculine people but fitting for anyone assigned female at birth.
HDW: It also sounds like there is a lot of change going on.
ELLA: We are talking full commotion. The Latex Lace & Leather pop-up event is held by brands Soft Skin Latex and Pristine––I am selling my leather goods. Bags, belts and other leather works of mine. In addition, I am working on several custom projects and still teaching on the Menswear course.
The move is a life decision. My partner and I, after seven years in London, have grown tired. The city is very capitalised. It is all money, money, money. Selling international custom projects from the UK is hard because of Brexit raising prices. In London we have this amazing and immense queer community, our chosen family but the way the city drains us has made us want to move for a long time. And now that time has come. You know, just as the year of Wood Snake is ending.
HDW: We are so happy you mentioned that!
ELLA: Last year was incredibly hard for so many of us. The year of Wood Snake, I have to mention, was terrible, all about shedding and recharging. As the new year is upon us, the Fire Horse approaching, I can feel a new energy releasing. My own energy is renewing, I am no longer in survival mode. Things are falling into place and I’m feeling hopeful for what’s ahead.
And Brussels is a hidden gem. The city comes with a creative community and boasts so much talent. Compared to London, the city is more down to earth. More for its people.
Creativity is also driven by the ability to be able to live – and feel secure.
My partner and I got married a few weeks ago in London and are now looking forward to this change in place. Being back on the continent and living a more peaceful and fulfilling life with better work-life-balance.
I really believe in collaboration and am now, again, finding myself closer to new acquaintances, possibilities and prospects. The year of Fire Horse makes me feel excited again.